Diamonds
A lot of people see diamonds as white, sparkly rocks. While that is partly true (diamonds are actually minerals, not rocks!) there is still so much more that goes into what makes a diamond beautiful and sparkly. The biggest of these, is the 4 C’s: Carat, Color, Clarity and Cut. Each one of these factors contributes to the price and with the right combination, you can usually find the perfect diamond within your budget. We’re going to break down each one of these for you and hopefully get you to a place where you may feel a bit more comfortable around these white sparkly stones.
Carat: Let’s start with the easy one. Carat refers to the weight. Diamonds are almost always referred to by their weight. A 1 carat diamond is the most familiar, but you can buy a diamond at any size and the price will adjust accordingly. A common starter point for an engagement ring is around 1.0 carats. There are a few weights that usually make the price jump and those are always at the quarter mark (.25, .50, .75, 1.00, 1.25, etc). If you stay just before that quarter mark, you can land in the “sweet spot” and get a lower price for a similar size appearance. So for example, if you want the look of a .75ct in size, you could go with a .70ct or a .72ct and get a slightly better price while still appearing almost the same size as the .75ct. Incidentally, this isn’t a trade secret so the options of diamonds in the “sweet spots” are slim- especially in the .92-.99ct range.
ECJ Pro Tip: We love the sweet spot just under 1 carat or 1.50 carats. You get an impressive size for a great price.
Color: The color of a diamond is graded on a scale of D through Z. As you get lower on the color scale, diamonds will start to gain a yellow or brownish tint. The color scale is bracketed which makes it a little bit easier to follow. D, E and F are considered colorless. That means that to the untrained eye, you can see no color. G, H, I and J are considered near colorless. That means that you may be able to see slight color, especially in I and J. K, L and M are considered faint, which means you may notice a yellow tint. After M, the color grades are grouped (N-O, P-Q) and they show obvious color.
Most diamonds you see on the market will be in the D-F range and G-I range. You very rarely see anything lower than a J, (unless you’re in our shop- we all happen to love those warmer hues so we usually have 1-2 on hand).
There are sweet spots in color too! If you want a colorless diamond, but don’t want to pay for a D, E or F, go for a G. G is so close and definitely appears quite white, especially when set in a ring. H and I are great too, especially if color isn’t something that jumps out at you or is one of your priorities. Here’s a tip: If you are getting a yellow gold or rose gold ring, you can get away with a lower color diamond and on the contrary- if you get a white gold setting, the color of an H or I may stand out more than it would in a warmer hued ring.
ECJ Pro Tip: F and G are our favorites but if we are looking at Old European cut diamonds, I and J are a great combo of decent price but fairly white.
Clarity: Clarity measures the inclusions inside the diamond. Almost all of the clarity grades cannot be seen to the unaided eye but I1, I2 and sometimes SI2 are visible without magnification. Stones with clarity as low as I2 are quite visible and may affect the sparkle of the stone. When considering an SI1 or SI2, try to see it in person or get a detailed report on the inclusions. We always like to get SI1’s and SI2’s in prior to buying and we will analyze the stone for you and give you our honest opinion of the stone. We’ll also send along detailed images (if you are unable to come in to see it in person).
There is a range in clarity grades and you can have a good SI2, a fair SI2 or a bad SI2. We have seen amazing SI2's that we think should be graded higher and we have seen terrible SI2's (same goes for all clarity grades). It all depends on the size, type, color and placement of the inclusion. Most inclusions are small crystals that are included inside the diamond when it formed but some can also be an interruption in the growth structure, a natural imprint, or a minute enclosed fracture.
ECJ Pro Tip: VS2 is 99% going to be a sure winner. So we like that they are worry free. SI1 and SI2 are also favorites as you can usually get a great price and great clarity depending on the size and location of the inclusion.
Cut: Cut is the only grading criteria that is a contribution from humans. How well the diamond is cut determines how much sparkle it will have. Cut is measured by three things: the symmetry of a diamond’s facets, the proportions of the angles and how well the diamond has been polished. The better the angles, the more symmetrical and proportionate facets, the more optimal light return it will have, aka sparkle. A “very good” cut grade is a great place to be and "excellent" is the top cut grade. We prioritize cut and do not go any lower than a “good” cut grade.
Cut is the biggest grading criteria that most people overlook- cut can make or break a stone (no pun intended). If a 1 carat diamond was a D color, VS1 clarity but has a fair to poor cut the stone can appear quite dim and not have any sparkle to it.
ECJ Pro Tip: Excellent cut is the way to go, hands down. Very Goods will be nice too, but we’re quite particular when it comes to cut. We always say this should be the very LAST of the 4 C’s to cut corners on.
Shape: Shape is part of cut and helps define a diamond’s profile shape. Round is the most popular, but there is also princess cut (square), cushion cut (soft cornered square, looks like a pillow), oval, emerald, old European, marquise and pear as well as a few others. When you are considering a shape other than round, the cut grade is not as applicable since GIA’s grading system is modeled for a round brilliant cut diamond.
Other do’s and don’ts:
-Be skeptical of diamonds with high fluorescence. According to GIA, fluorescence does not affect the appearance of the stone but this can be different from stone to stone. When viewing a diamond with strong fluorescence indoors, it may appear no different than a stone without fluorescence. If you take that diamond outside to view it in sunlight, the diamond with strong blue fluorescence may appear cloudy and look smudged despite how many times you try to wipe it clean.
Additionally, oftentimes when you view two diamonds that are equal in all ways except for fluorescence, the stone with the stronger fluorescence will be priced lower than the one without. This is usually a good indication that the fluorescence contributes to the appearance of the diamond. That being said, sometimes a warmer colored diamond, like a J or K with faint fluorescence can actually be a benefit. The diamond may appear whiter because the blue tint from fluorescence cancels out the warmth tone. This varies from stone to stone so it is always important to see a stone in person before purchasing it or having a professional give you their personal and honest opinion.
-Avoid diamonds with EGL reports. The 4 C’s grading system was invented by GIA but many other certification institutes use it as well. EGL is a lab that uses the 4C’s grading system but often misuses it and grades higher than what the diamond actually is. They most commonly do this in color since they grade the diamond in the face-up position, rather than the intended face-down position, as instructed by GIA. For example, they may give an I color diamond a G grade. When you are searching for diamonds and you come across this G graded diamond by EGL, the price may seem like a great deal. However, if you go to get this appraised in the future, it will appraise for less than what you paid and will be reassigned the correct color grade.
-Consider clarity inclusions as a benefit and remember your diamond’s inclusions. No two diamonds are alike. Your diamond’s unique inclusions can always help you identify your stone. This is great if you are taking your diamond ring to a new jeweler for service or repair. Knowing your diamond’s inclusions and where they are located can help ease your nerves when you drop off your diamond for the first time.
Typically the diamonds we get in to the shop are going to be within where we like to buy, so let’s recap:
Carat: We love the sweet spot just under 1 carat or 1.50 carats.
Color: F and G are our favorite but if we are looking at Old European cut diamonds, I and J are a great combo of decent price but fairly white.
Clarity: VS2 is 99% going to be a sure winner. So we like that they are worry free. SI1 and SI2 are also favorites as you can usually get a great price and great clarity depending on the size and location of the inclusion.
Cut: Excellent, hands down. Very Goods will be nice too, but we’re quite particular when it comes to cut. We always say this should be the very LAST of the 4 C’s to cut corners on.
Congratulations! You are now a diamond pro. Even if you don’t feel like one yet, you now have some knowledge to start with in your search for the perfect diamond. Ready to meet with one of our diamond experts? Click the link below to book your appointment now.